Postcards From Seoul
SS25 SEOUL: Inside the collection with búl designer Virginia Martin
What led to Seoul inspiring this collection?
Last year, I had the opportunity to travel to Seoul for a work trip, and it was an unforgettable experience. The city offered a wide range of visual and sensory contrasts and you could really feel the energy of the place. From places like Bukchon Hanok Village—a district with traditional Korean houses where you feel transported to another era—to exploring Gangnam after dark, where the vibrant nightlife creates a completely different atmosphere.
Seoul left a lasting impression on me through a mix of textures, colours, patterns, silhouettes, and experiences. I knew this was where our next destination story would draw from for spring-summer 2025.
What narrative are you conveying this season?
This season I chose to reflect on a mix of known styles our customers have gravitated toward over the years while also embracing our ‘less, but better’ philosophy. It’s a narrative that echoes Seoul’s vibrant spirit, combining tradition with modernity.
What styles and design features can we expect to see?
This collection offers a range of familiar styles alongside new silhouettes and designs. You’ll find varied coordinated sets, cotton tie-wrap tops and silk singlets with delicate pin-tuck detailing that pair with a-line minis, bias-cut midis, maxi skirts, and wide-leg pants.
Spring dressing and summer occasionwear explore double-layer designs, drawstrings, gathering and flowy silken shapes alongside timeless checks including our new 3-piece suiting across waistcoats, blazers, and pant/skirt combinations.
Footwear and accessories complete the story with an oversized ‘holiday scarf,’ open and closed-toe heels, slip-on loafers, an updated version of our clogs, and a chunky fisherwoman sandal.
How was the colour palette developed?
When creating a colour palette, I draw inspiration from a wide range of sources such as architecture, landscapes, native flowers, and even smaller objects found throughout my travels.
In this collection, you’ll find cherry blossom pinks reminiscent of Seoul in springtime and lilac from mountain azaleas off the Korean peninsula. Varied greens reflect traditional elements, vibrant fuchsia mirrors neon-lit streets, monochromes draw from architectural influences and marine blues look towards the waterways and scattered islands close to Seoul.
For prints you’ll find checks, multi-colour stripes, and three distinctive designs created at our Fitzroy studio: abstract forest fragments, illustrative hand-drawn objects, and a travel-inspired scarf.
What textile can we expect to see this season?
Natural fibres always hold focus in our collections. Cupro, tencel, and semi-stretch blends have been chosen to offer light and comfortable layering options for spring. As we step into summer, natural linen and cotton are included for their breathability and relaxed feel. Silk also makes a return across varied separates and dresses and offers a beautiful drape and fuss-free feel which will be welcomed for the hot Australian summer ahead.
What was the highlight of your visit to Seoul?
During my stay, I took a train ride to the southernmost part of Seoul. It’s always lovely to travel by rail and was a great way to take in the countryside and see how it changed and evolved throughout the journey.
Visiting Bukchon Hanok Village was definitely a stand out. This district feels like walking through history with its traditional Korean houses and incredible craftsmenship.
I also enjoyed many stops for coffee and cake, which seemed to be a local go-to as well as indulging in (a lot) of Korean BBQ with one particular spot preparing our meal over a straw fire creating a lovely smoky flavour.
The Starfield Library was also an unexpected find which was a unique tall structure housing books that seem to reach up to the sky. And of course experiencing the nightlife of Gangnam and being surrounded by the neon lights and that buzzing energy which was a stark contrast to my slower travel days.
Lastly, which piece from the collection will you be wearing as the warmth appears?
The Ulster Vest, Brisa Pant, and Ponte Jacket in new blue/cream check, all beloved styles among our customers (and staff) will be a great 3-piece suit for the hot summer ahead. I’m also looking forward to wearing our Chingu Sandal, a new chunky fisherwoman design we’ve developed with thick straps and comfy lug sole. I’ll be able to easily ride my bike in them for commutes to the office and on weekends down the coast.
